There are two ways now of sampling The Troll’s Pantry’s toothsome burgers. Catch them at Brighthelm Gardens close to Brighton Station, every Friday between 11am and 3pm, alongside the street food faithful or troll (sic) up to the Hobgoblin music pub, where they run a hugely popular seven-day operation from a gazebo in the garden. From their early peripatetic days, they have always aimed to source as much as possible ethically. All meat, dairy and other animal products are from local, high welfare farms and organic where possible. The 35 day aged beef all comes from a “Wild Range” conservation project in Sussex allowing rare breed English Longhorn cattle to roam free. The Troll (Paul Clark) shows a similar respect for the raw materials in cooking, notably in their stalwart ‘no flounces’ burger, The Imperial (£6.50). This consists of Longhorn pattie, St Giles cheese, pickles, American mustard, Heinz ketchup, salad. Special editions include the Smoky Mountain, the Trollkano and, matched with Langham’s prize-winning Saison Beer, The Drunken Reaper (£8.50) – a groundbreaking burger that includes pickled asparagus and a radish salad with Saison beer dressing. All extras are hand-made – such as their brioche buns and Bourbon bacon jam. Salads are foraged whenever possible. A very special operation.