Not everyone loves the swanky basement setting. Some find it womblike and cosy, others a touch claustrophobic. All the more frustrating when so many of the rooms at this luxurious boutique hotel have sea views (check out the excellent ‘gastronomic package’ offering a five-course dinner, a night’s stay and breakfast in bed for £115 a head). Resident or simply diner, there is no questioning the quality of the refined, deceptively simple dishes from chef Andrew Mackenzie. The Chef’s Tasting Menu, five courses for £55 (with matching wine £90), is a great introduction. An autumn example featured Potato and Summer Truffle Ravioli, Roast Scottish Scallops, Roast Partridge, Cheeses and Praline Souffle. Expect amuse gueules and pre-desserts too. Wines start at £25 a bottle.