This is a real Taste of Brighton fave, well worth the 20 mile drive inland to its home, the beautiful village of Fletching. We’re not alone in our admiration. Over the 35 years it has been run by the Pullan family (they founded a village cricket team, still going, five years later) it has been praised by The Good Food Guide, The Good Pub Guide, The Michelin Guide and many others. The public agree, so we suggest you get there early for food in the bar or panoramic gardens (barbecues in summer) – or reserve in the low-beamed restaurant. You could just stand at the bar with the locals, a pint of local Harvey’s or Hepworths in your hand. The wine list starts at £15.95, but prices rise steeply when you hit the ‘connoisseurs’ list’. A canny kitchen cures its own gravadlax and smokes a variety of well-sourced stuff in the garden smoker. Lamb comes from Romney Marsh, game from even closer, fish from Rye Bay and vegetables from a market garden up the road and all are treated impeccably by head chef Matt Sandells and his kitchen team. Try the seared Rye Bay Scallops with Kohlabi, Artichokes and a Cherry Tomato Salsa (£9.50), then Wood-roasted Rack of Marsh Lamb, joined by Cannellini Beans and Salsa Verde for a bargain £18. Dog-friendly and 13 characterful rooms to stay in.