This is the flagship of Ben McKellar’s ‘Ginger’ chain but, while its offspring are all gastropubs – The Ginger Pig, The Ginger Dog and, out in the South Downs, the Ginger Fox – The Gingerman is more of an intimate bistro, tucked into a sloping sidestreet down to the promenade. Intimate it is, with closely packed tables. It opened here on this site in 1998 and decamped for a while to Drake’s Hotel. Back in the original premises, it maintains impeccable standards and a consistent imagination with raw materials. Dinner costs £32 for two courses, £37 for three. For that you might get Scallops, Kim-chi Consommé, Sweet Potato and Seaweed to start,a Fillet of Beef with Black Treacle as a main and a playful pudding of Masala Chai Tea Souffle with Passionfruit Kulfi. A three course weekly-changing set lunch is the true bargain at £18. The Gingerman also runs a fascinating blog http://thegingerchef.blogspot.co.ukwith recipes.