In these days when burgers prices and the burgers themselves seem to be ever spiraling upwards, step forward Chimney House’s Dirty Little Burger, costing just £4. It squats there on the bar snack menu because it’s not the mightiest mouthful in town. Yet it’s very affordable presence seems to sum up this almost rustic hilltop hostelry just off Seven Dials, where all is deft and down-to-earth. Wooden floors, flowers, a food list that shouts out well-sourced and home-made all charm. Meat from Garlic Wood Farm gets ground for the only burger they do, which turns out not be quite as tiny as you expected – just a classic compilation of beef, gherkin rounds, onions, melted cheese, salad and ketchup. Simply perfect and succulently, chin-drenchingly dirty. Chunky chips, skin left on, steeple the price up to £7. Oh and a pint or two of Harvey’s Sussex Best Bitter takes the bill into the stratosphere. Not!