The veteran tag of ‘probably Britain’s best vegetarian restaurant’ ought to sit as heavy as a wholemeal aduki bean pasty on Terre a Terre, but it doesn’t. Mainly because this narrow 100-cover eaterie in The Lanes rises above all those sandals and lentils stereotypes without sacrificing its veggie ideals (they were doing sustainable and ethical 20 years ago, when they started up). The light touch is immediately obvious in the punning names given to some dishes – take starters such as Cereal Thriller (£8.95) and Peeking Buns (£8.95/£13.95), showcasing a global magpie approach to multiple ingredients that can stray into unnecessarily complicated fusion territory. But when it works, it is glorious. A £14.95 main, Easy-Peasy Calabrese (ouch) turns worthy greens into a thing of culinary beauty. Quite a construction effort, mind: Yarg cheese, smoked tomato, pea and mustard leaf croquette with buttered samphire and nettle pesto served with black onion seed brick cup caponata, smoked red pepper aioli with confit girolle mushrooms and garlic roasted calabrese stalk, finished with griddled pearl onions and buttered broccoli heads. Desserts are equally playful. You won’t get just any old Lush Chocolate Truffle Brownie for £8.85. Theirs is filled with salt caramel coated in Santiago chocolate and cacao, served with a deep damson sauce infused with orange zest, apple balsamic, cinnamon and shiso, finished with fresh blackberries, minty shiso shoots and crème fraiche mint ice-cream. They suggest a shot of sweet Pedro Ximenez with it. So, no hair shirts here.