By day a small plate French restaurant, by night, when the blue and green stained glass of the frontage shines seductively, its small side bar is the perfect convivial introduction to increasingly trendy ‘natural wines’. Plateau serves 20 wines by the glass, organic, biodynamic, often from small growers. Kick off your evening with champagne. The Fleury Blanc de Noirs, low in sugar, is exquisite for £9 a glass, while at a quid cheaper Ditchling Court Garden Rose is a lovely pink, floral Sussex fizz. Another English discovery is Sacred Spiced English vermouth (£6.50) from Highgate, rich and complex, made with macerated orange peel. The cocktail menu features classics from the Probibition Era and the 1940s. Try the Satan’s Whiskers (gin, orange curacao, dry and sweet vermouth, fresh orange juice and orange bitters) or the Pan American Clipper (Le Lieu calvados, fresh lime, grenadine and absinthe). If all this is making you hungry, there are classy nibbles and, if you really can’t resist, a full a la carte menu.