AA Gill called it one of the best three Japanese restaurants in the UK. It is certainly Brighton’s finest (though Oki-Nami might contest that), which means fish is treated with the utmost skill and delicacy, be it in sushi, sashimi or tempura. Best value are the £7.50 Geta sushi sets, which offer a selection of sushi on a traditional wooden platter. Our TOB fave is the main of Herring ‘Kabayaki’ donburi, where the fish has been marinated in soy and sake before grilling. The beauty of the dish presentation is matched by the setting – in The Opticon, a beautiful modernist building designed by dRMM 15 years ago. The exterior was designed to resemble a lantern floating on Bartholomew Square; the walls are inspired by shoji screens and slide open just like in a traditional Japanese room, opening the whole restaurant up to the outside in summer. Even more traditional is the Hiroba deck, designed to emulate the experience of tatami mats in Japan. Rather than sit on chairs, people sit on the surface of the deck at tables that rise up from it. When not in use, the tables disappear within the structure, allowing the deck to be used as a stage or platform – perfect for Moshimo’s annual Japanese festival. Fish conservation is high on Moshimo’s agenda. It set up Fishlove, www.fishlove.co.uk, with actress Greta Scacchi in 2009, a photographic campaign to raise awareness of destructive fishing practices around the world. Gillian Anderson and Helen Bonham Carter are among celebs who have agreed to pose naked with fish to help the cause.