The now departed Due South flew the flag for a a classy fish restaurant in Brighton. Its seafront position in the Arches, facing the shingle, helped its appeal. Nowadays there is only one contender for best in town, albeit more inland, in Hove. The Little Fish Market, in a former fishmonger’s shop, does what it says on the can. Except, no cans. All the fish here is stonkingly fresh and, it goes without saying, sustainable. It’s the brainchild of chef/proprietor Duncan Ray. His Sea Bass with Fennel and Pink Grapefruit with a Crab Ravioli is to die (and be buried at sea) for. We also like the sound of Monkfish with Pork Belly and Carrot and Star Anise Puree. Presentation is exquisite and raw materials are market-led on the day, but such attention to detail doesn’t come cheaply and, note, it is cash only – £38 for two courses, £46 for three, from a menu choice of four starters, four mains, four desserts. Book well in advance for weekends. Ray was once head chef at the 2 Michelin Star Latymer Park and also worked for Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck. A welcome big fish in a small tank!