Next door neighbour of veteran veggie eaterie Terre a Terre, this is one Indian in town where the meat dishes are the thing to order. It’s been around a while, too, well over a decade, founded by Minesh Agnihotri, whose previous career was making medical prosthetics, and Byron Swales, who as a child was forced with his family to escape the oppressive Burmese regime in a wooden plane. The partners certainly know how to run a smooth top-end operation, operating a varied choice set menu at dinner, £23.95 for two courses, £27.95 for three. Lamb looks good. Try the slow cooked Lamb Kolhapuri, IS’s version of an original Maharashtrian recipe with toasted peanut, red chillies and coconut, if it’s on. Or tackle the sumptuously rich Murgh Lucknowi, a tandoor dish with the chicken marinated in yoghurt, roasted cardamom and cinnamon. The sauce is made with roasted poppy and sesame seeds, cashew nuts and ground spices and this very North Indian Mughal dish is served with basmati rice, garlic cumin butter roti, pickles and chutneys. In complete contrast is the Alleppey Prawn Moilee from the backwaters of Kerala. Tiger prawns are cooked in an onion and coconut sauce and served with Sesame Kale, Cabbage Thoran and Basmati rice. Check out the Gujarati thalis, too – this is a kitchen that likes to roam and does it well.