Iconic hotel The Grand is now doing justice to its seafront dining room, even if the name does sound like a car number plate. Exec chef Alan White’s best efforts are concentrated on classic and classically simple fish dishes where the provenance of the raw materials is exemplary. The fruits de mer and oysters au naturel just cry out for a glass of bubbly or two, the seafood chowder is dense and fishy and the signature lobster burger has a posse of admirers. TOB’s own favourites are the Sussex fish pie and the monkfish marinated in Indian spices. The setting is light-filled and luxurious, where its predecessor King’s had been just dowdy. It seems particularly perfect for the Seafood Afternoon Tea (£22.95 Mon-Thu, £26.95 Fri-Sat), which includes a salted scone served with treacle-cured salmon and Keta caviar, smoked salmon from the Wye Valley, Poole Bay oysters and much more.