Dating back to 1981, this relaxed pine-clad dining space bills itself as Brighton’s original vegetarian restaurant. Certainly it boasts a dedicated fanbase. When Ramin and Jane Mostowfi took over the business in 2004 they adopted an ‘if it’s not broke don’t fix it’ policy. That hasn’t meant standing still, just cannily adapting to changing times. There’s an increasing emphasis on sharing plates of their Middle East and Asian influenced food, accompanied by a caring ethos that saw them a runner-up in the Best Ethical Restaurant category of the Observer Food Monthly Awards in both 2013 and 2014. Organic, vegan, gluten-free boxes are all ticked. Typical of the set-up is an eclectic mezze menu (three components for £12) that might include quinoa, sweet potato, tahini dips and tofu. Dips are often given a punchy twist. Try their Pink Peppercorn Baba Ghanoush or Pea and Mint Hummus. Dish resentation is as delicate as composition, but while combinations are more restrained than at arch-rival Terre a Terre, F for F’s are equally satisfying. Tofu Pockets Stuffed with Soba Noodles and Pine Nuts with Pickled Ginger and Wakame perhaps or Beets, Potato and Parsnip Spiced Rosti with a Sweet, Sticky Tamarind and Date Sauce. TOB’s current favourite is Baby Munchkin Pumpkin Stuffed with Herbed Wild Rice and Chestnuts served with roasted Brussel sprouts and a caramelised walnut and soya cream sauce (£13). Desserts are impressive, too – the likes of lemongrass infused Crème Brûlée with summer berry salad and a homemade lemon thyme sablé. The wine list is strong on vegan, organic and biodynamic, as you’d expect. We’d recommend fab toasty English fizz from nearby Ditchling – Ridgeview Bloomsbury (£39.95).