Housed in three fishermen’s cottages in the heart of the Lanes, Brighton’s oldest seafood restaurant has served up locally caught fish, scallops, crab and lobster for more than 150 years; current owners the Leigh-Jones family have been in situ since 1945 and see no reason to alter the ambience, all crimson velvet and white linen. TOB is happiest there sampling freshly shucked oysters (£5.95 for six) on the cobbled outside terrace. And not just any old oysters. Such is English’s sourcing, you might have a choice from the marble-topped oyster bar of various toothsome molluscs – from Jersey’s Rossmore, Richard Haward at West Mersea in Essex and, from further afield, Lindisfarne. English's back story means eating here you are in good company. It’s hall of fame features signed photographs of Charlie Chaplin, Lily Savage and Judi Dench, while apparently a top-hatted ghost is sighted in the kitchens. The food, though, is not stuck in some heritage rut. Beyond the oyster offering try octopus carpaccio, scallop ceviche and their own home hay-smoked tuna and salmon. Fish and chips will cost you £9.95 and the wines come from cutting edge merchants Robersons. Try the Austrian organic Gruner Veltliner from Mantlerhof. It’s £9.45 by the glass, £36 a bottle, but worth it as a perfect seafood wine.