Chef Murrali Dharan from Chennai specialises, naturally, in South Indian cuisine, in particular Dosas – that stuffed and rolled fermented rice flour pancake that has conquered the rest of India. Murrali’s are magnificent, whatever the filling. I prefer the vegetarian mix of diced potato, mustard seeds, curry leaves and ginger. A chutney of coriander and coconut spiked with tamarind makes a feisty partner. There is residual heat to many non-Dosa dishes here, even the seafood. Coconut-laced Quillon Chicken (£7.80) is mooted as a mild option but isn’t. There’s an extensive seafood list – particularly toothsome is the (OK it’s a mouthful even to order) Karaikudi Nandu Kozhambu (£9.85), which pairs sea water crab with shallot, curry leaves and ground coconut. It comes with a red chilli alert sign on the menu. You have been warned.