Now this is an interesting place. Owner and cook book author Simon Hope ran the legendary Food For Thought restaurant in Covent Garden in the Seventies. In 1981 he opened Food For Friends, now Brighton’s longest running vegetarian restaurant. After a spell as a food consultant Hope is back in the hospitality harness for this family venture. The Crabtree,18 miles north in some beautiful countryside, is defInitely not veggie but decidedly principled in it approach to being a gastropub. Hope, daughter Daisy and son Hamish (who ran Brighton’s much missed fish restaurant, Due South) buy everything from within a 25 mile radius, even their rapeseed oil. Only the current beer range is from far off – Badger Ales from Hall and Woodhouse 100 miles away in Dorset. The head chef is from nearer home. Mark Woodhouse, ex-Ginger Pig, is turning out some vivid flavours. Witness starters of Cuttlefish Gnocchi, crispy cuttlefish, fennel, romanesco, ink dressing (£7) or aLeek, Stilton and Chetrnut Press with quinoa, cranberry jam and candied walnuts for 50p less. Or maybe as a main you might order Pan-fried John Dory (£19.50), which comes with red wine braised salsigy, baby spinach, purple sprouting broccoli. The wine list ticks lots of boxes – including organic, biodynamic, vegetarian and vegan. Wine For Thought – you wouldn’t expect anything less.