The home cooking of the western Indian state of Gujarat is the basis for some of Britain’s finest Indian restaurants – Prashad and Hansa in Yorkshire, Rasoi in North London. What all these places have in common is they are vegetarian (like Ahimsa Street Food in this TOB section). Chaula’s isn’t, but you can eat wondrously well without even considering the meat and fish options, so that is why it makes this section. Why bother with those places that cook meat substitute substances in a way that apes non-veggie dishes – Quorn spaghetti bolognese anyone? Heather Mills’ V Bites? No. The eponymous Chaula started off iselling her own homemade dishes at curry nights in the Lewes newsagents she ran with her husband. They expanded into a Lewes restaurant (still there, in Eastgate House, BN7 2LP) and nowadays this larger outlet near Brighton Town Hall. All dark wood and a dominant mural, the place is impressive, as are some of the signature dishes, cooked from six different home-prepared sauces. We’d recommend from the mains, both at £7.99, Baby Aubergine Stuffed with Peanuts, Sesame Seeds, Jaggery, Garlic and Spices or Bhindi Kadhi (chunky okra pieces in a thick yoghurt sauce with spices, garlic, curry leaves). Before these you have to try a snack you won’t find in trad curry houses. Patra (£3.99) consists of leaves of edible colocasia or “elephant ear” plant coated with spicy batter, rolled up, and steamed.