Gujarati home cooking is the basis for some of Britain’s finest Indian restaurants – Prashad and Hansa in Yorkshire, Rasoi in North London. What all these places have in common is they are vegetarian (like Ahimsa Street Food in this TOB section). Chaula’s isn’t, but it is rooted in the western Indian state of Gujarat – via a Lewes newsagents Chaula and her husband once ran. From selling her own dishes at curry nights at the shop she expanded into a Lewes restaurant (still there, in Eastgate House, BN7 2LP) and nowadays this larger place near Brighton Town Hall. The new Chaula’s, all dark wood and dominating mural, is impressive, as are some of the signature dishes, cooked from six different home-prepared sauces. We’d recommend from the mains, Baby Aubergine Stuffed With Peanuts, Sesame Seeds, Jaggery, Garlic and Spices or Bhindi Kadhi (chunky okra pieces in a thick yoghurt sauce with spices, garlic, curry leaves). Both £7.99 and both veggie, we couldn’t resist! Before these you have to try a snack you won’t find in trad curry houses. Patra (£3.99) consists of leaves of edible colocasia or “elephant ear” plant coated with spicy batter, rolled up, and steamed. For those happy to stay inside their curry comfort zone Chaula’s does offer, at the bottom of the menu, Dhansak, Korma and Tikka Masala.