If the Basketmakers exhibits all that’s best in an old-fashioned local, behind its understated blue facade the Dispensary is a showcase for all the wild and wonderful beer styles coming from the new brewers. As you’d expect from a collaboration between two of them, London’s Late Knights and Brighton Bier Co, which is based at Kemptown’s Hand In Hand (see entry). Sample the former’s Dawns Early Light for a well-balanced, fragrant American pale ale style and contrast with the latter’s more upfront West Pier Pale Ale. Among the cask and keg selection, including four beer gravity dispensed from the barrel, are two “mystery beers’ with no pump clips to give you a clue what you’ll be drinking (usually top stuff from the likes of London whizzes Kernel and Beavertown). If you can’t hazard a guess, they might tell you afterwards what you’ve been drinking!