The Spanish have a way with fish; hence they are happy to supplement their own harvest of the sea by importing produce from our shores we shamefully neglect. It’s not surprising then that Agua Dulce, not far from Brighton’s Fishing Museum, treats seafood with a certain tenderness, in its tapas, fish specials and, of course, paella. Spanking fresh turbot, monkfish, red mullet, sole and native lobsters all find their way here from local fish markets to feature on a daily changing menu. £18.75 will get you mains of fish and shellfish cooked Zarzuela style (in a mariniere sauce) or Parrillada (grilled), minimum two persons. Or you could just share a bottle of moreish Acantus Rosado (pink) for just £13.50 and pick at a substantial tapa of Pulpo a la Gallega (£8.95) – octopus served Galician style, sprinkled with paprika and olive oil on a bed of potatoes. If it’s a Thursday evening, there might be a live Flamenco accompaniment, too.