Michael Bremner’s restaurant-as-theatre climaxed a meteoric first year with the award of a Michelin Bib Gourmand and two gongs in the 2014 Brighton Food And Drink Awards – for Best Newcomer and Best Restaurant. Earlier Guardian restaurant critic Marina O’Loughlin said of it: "Food-wise, it's the most exciting thing to hit Brighton for years. Actually, maybe ever." The cramped scale of the place, a dark, narrow glass box really, is used to the advantage of the buzzing experiment they call ‘social dining’. Diners at the kitchen counter are within a knife’s length of the brigade so intensely preparing the intricate small plates that may soon earn 64 Degrees Michelin status. The same chefs serve you directly, so it is easy to get into a conversation. The short menu changes frequently and includes four meat, four fish and four veg dishes, all minimally labelled (‘Mushroom, celeriac, egg, truffle’, you know the kind of thing). Plus, of course, there’s the “house egg”, cooked sous-vide for minutes at 64 degrees until its white is set and its yolk is runny. Modish yes, but Bremner’s command of the ying and yang of sweet and salty etcetera means few dishes fail to hit the mark. Chicken Wings with a Kichi marinade and Foamy Blue Cheese Topping are typical of the powerful flavours being delivered. He has already opened a sister restaurant in Pimlico, London, but he has not taken his eye off the ball here. An affordable wine list starts at £20 and puds feature the likes of ‘Rum Bear Jelly’ – an oversized gummy bear with a zingy lemon sherbet. Well, we told you it was different.