Chef/co-owners Dean Heselden and Jamie Everton-Jones have worked in tandem since 2006 and there is a harmony in the accomplished, sometimes dashing food they put out in a homely setting, lifted by some bold art on the walls. Grab a window table if you can and, for a safe introduction, essay the mid-week Menu du Jour (£19.95 two courses, £22.95, available midweek evenings and Saturday until 5pm for four folk together). A starter such as ‘The Pigs Pantry’ – smoked pig’s jowl ballotine, black pudding soil, poached apple and root veg and a take on the classic Coq au Vin demonstrate the kitchen’s prowess. Recourse to A la Carte steps it up a gear with, say, Venison (seared loin, venison ragu, beetroot and pear tortellini with charred celeriac pavé for £23.95). Alongside all this seasonal Modern British stuff whimsy can intrude – we recall foie gras masquerading as glossy red cherries, with the stalks made from tiny pieces of deep fried duck. The wine list is cannily chosen with a fine house Sauvignon under £20.